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| Bolivia, home to the biggest kernels of corn you have ever seen, amazing saltflats, the beautifully serene Lake Titicaca and women wearing bowler hats! |
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| Blog pages (Click on the country to find out the latest) * Argentina * Chile * Bolivia * Peru * Equador |
| First Impressions We like it here!! Very different (of course) from the more Westernized countries of Argentina and Chile, but not as "third world" as we anticipated. We took an amazing trip from the North of Chile into Bolivia over the incredible scenery of this region, which is basically salt flats as far as the eye can see (picture top left) with the occasional weird rock formation, and lakes with abundances of flamingoes. We are in Sucre, the "unofficial" capital of Bolivia, which is a lovely colonial city with many churches and killer hills (a bit like San Fransisco) and we are studying Spanish here for 2 weeks - 6 hours a day, so we really should be able to have a conversation with the locals by now! We are staying with a Bolivian host family who are very hospitable and who do not speak English, so our Spanish skills are truely being tested! First impressions - we love the Bolivians - they have no agression or arrogance and are courteous, welcoming and interested in us. The countryside is beautiful. As expected, as soon as we stepped foot in the country, despite being exceptionally careful, we got the dreaded Bolivian equivalent of the "Deli Belly". No need to go into details, but we were somewhat incapacitated for 24 hours. Sadly on this occasion, we had incorrectly decided to book into a hostel room with shared bathroom, but we soon got a transfer to a room with "bano privado" (private bathroom) which was an essential move. Fortunately we got off lightly with just a 24 hour stint, and fingers crossed, we seem to have settled in, so to speak. |
| We did it!!! Yes, we took to the skies last Monday in the countryside surrounding Sucre, in the South of Bolivia. We had booked to go on the previous Saturday, however, we are visiting Bolivia at the end of their rainy season and the rains started on Friday night and they did not stop....unrelentless rain through the night and into the wee small hours of Saturday morning.... We had to get up at 6am to meet to see if the weather eased up enough to allow us to go, but it was worse than the rain we had on our wedding day (if you can believe that)! and it did not stop all day. So, our paragliding was called off that day, but we managed to re-arrange for last Monday and off we went on a day with beautiful clear blue skies and sunshine - could not have been better! After a quick briefing (all in Spanish of course)! we took turns to take the 4 x 4 up the side of a mountain from where we would launch ourselves, strapped to the front of the instructor, as this was a tandem flight. So, the weather was good, however, it was not good weather for paragliding (as you can imagine you need wind to help you launch and wind was one thing we had none of on this day)! So, my turn first and the instructor and I stood with all our gear on, on this remote mountain somewhere in Bolivia, waiting, and waiting and waiting for a single gust of wind to take us into the air. We waited for about 10 minutes and it wasnīt happening, so we had to walk down to the mountain edge so that we could run off the edge of the cliff instead (something I was somewhat peturbed about, as I hadnīt expected to have to throw myself off a cliff)!! Anyway, we did it and the flight down was graceful and peaceful and took in some absolutely breathtaking scenery in this rural part of Bolivia. I even managed to get some photos on the way down (clutching VERY tightly onto my camera) and, unlike my landing after my sky-dive in New Zealand 10 years previously, I had a wonderfully gentle landing. John and I both enjoyed our flights, though we did say that Paragliding is a very gentle experience and allows time for you to enjoy and relax, unlike skydiving, which gives you a buzz and an adrenalin rush. Thanks again for this treat! |
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| A slice of rural Bolivia Thank you to all of you who bought us accommodation at Alaya Cottage, Solyluna, in Bolivia. We were particularly glad to make it here, because sadly we could not get to the other rural accommodation on our gift list at La Vispera in Sampiata, due to the flooding and potentially dangerous roads, so we were very happy to make it to this idyllic spot in a place called Coroico, which is 3 hours North of La Paz in rural Bolivia. It was a stunning spot and we had our own cottage for 3 nights (see picture) which had a hammock on our private patio where we could relax with our glass of vino whilst gazing at the absolutely stunning mountain views covered in mist (John said it reminded him of Uganda - mysterious scenery with banana plantations around (John did also say that it was slightly less war-torn than Uganda and had fewer bullet holes in the side of the buildings)!! In addition to the banana trees were lime trees, avocado trees, coffee trees, coca trees (yes, the plant that Cocaine comes from - rife here in Bolivia where it is the only way for locals to become rich - but also the coca is used in leaf form for chewing to relieve the symptoms of altitude sickness). We also saw wild orchids and hummingbirds and our cottage was so rural that although this was only forest, it felt like we were deep in the jungle with the sounds of the animals croaking a chorus at 6am. It was a lovely, lovely place for us to relax for 2 days and it would have been longer except that there was one downside........no mosquitos, which was great, but instead, something worse called a sandfly, which are tiny insects that love to bite you and their bites itch and itch and itch...........we have returned to La Paz looking like leprosy suffers...still, better than getting malaria, we think!! |
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| Our first pre-Inca ruins The impressive sight of Tiwanaku was a great day out from La Paz and well worth the 2 hour trip to get to. Ok, if we had not had a guide, we said we thought it would have been a bit like looking at a pile of stones, but finding out about this ancient civilisation with the guideīs help was invaluable and we had a great day. This is a pre-Inca civilisation who built extraordinary temples and irrigation systems many years BC (sorry, canīt remember the specifics), and it is still very much under excavation, as only 4% has actually been uncovered to date. They are working hard to uncover the rest, but are hampered by the rainy season, so only work for 5 months of the year...it is expected to be completed in approximately 7 years. Then, it will probably be as famous as Macchu Picchu, but now it is impressive in a less obvious way and we just loved the fact that there we few tourists there and we could wander about as we wished. Oh yes, and we ate llama meat afterwards which was interesting.........not unpleasant....bit like pork really....roll on Ecuador for the guinea pig!! |
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| Only 8 hours late!! We thought that the buses in Bolivia werenīt too bad, we had the strategy of paying the most we could and 1) getting the best buses available. 2) pricing ourselves out of range of the thiefs and smelly old ladies that look great in photos but absolutely stink (possibly because they eat all the time and just spit the pips, bones and other detritus down themselves only to brush it off when a sufficient mass has built up....) 3) looking the worst and poorest travelers on the bus so that the thievs at the bus station that we arrive at will instead be tempted by the younger nieve Brits and Americans with I-pods loaded into their ears.... Iīm doing my best to look shabby - only a few hours preparation....... So we (and for once especially myself) was particularly annoyed with myself for not arriving at the bus station with the usual time to check it all out and get the seats that we were allocated......Alas there seemed to be so many people that they had laid on an additional bus.... and not the usual tourist standard (well we did pay 6 pounds for our premium 12 hour bus ride (fully reclining seats)) but just a step up from cattle class.....whilst all the locals seem to have been allocated our seats........ but diplomatic as ever I just accepted the fact and sat quietly (typically British snarling in the corner....) (actually i did ask and got told............ no shall we say....) So, 10 hours into our journey through the night and I think maybe we made such good time that our driver had decided to pull over so as not to arrive in La Paz too early...... nice then that he would let us sleep for a couple of hours (from 6 to 8am) annoying for some that he will not let them off the bus (this bus had no toilets, unlike the one we had booked!!!! donīt get me going...) luckly I was not as desperate as the Irish girl whom had the door slammed in her face..... But no, it was not the fact that he was a nice bus driver stopping to let us sleep, but a road block had appeared..... even with our limited Spanish we established that it had already been in effect for 24 hrs and panic set in amongst some of the wealthier Bolivians that were returning to work in La Paz, so helped by this and the money of the occupants (many Gringos able to afford the 30p bribe that we had to pay the driver)......Remembering the Minerīs strike in the early 80īs we turned scabs and busted through the pickets...... well keen to avoid a confrontation the driver headed cross country.....so over fields and through pastures, across rickety bridges and around the pickets we went..... Sadly this was not a lone picket but a collection of towns and villages deciding thay had had enough of the electricity supply or lack of ....and had all set up road blocks...... after the thrird cross country manouver the driver had had enough...... I think maybe it was the river crossing watching the car infront getting pushed out...... but no, no more - and off he went driving us into the midday sun totally away from the region and on the longest detour ever..... adding another 5 hours onto the 3 already accumulated.... But I love that man....... I love the fact that our bus was the scabby one that you could drive across country. And even more, I love the fact the although we were 8 hours late on a 12 journey, the posh bus was another 7 hours later.... making their journey 15 hours late on a 12 hour journey...... Life is fate...... |
| The AMAZING Salt Flats We decided to cross from Chile to Bolivia by way of the amazing Salt Flat area, which is an enormous Salt Lake which lends itself to some freaky photographs and stunning scenery (almost other-wordly). We wanted to do this scenery justice, so instead of going on a day trip, we took a 3 day tour in a Jeep, which we very happily shared with some friends we have made along the way whom we met on the Navimag boat trip in Chile. So, off we went with our backpacks strapped to the top of our 4 x 4 into this incredible landscape. We passed lakes which were literally Green in colour, but so green it seemed unreal (apparently the colour comes from the copper and arsenic within the water - needless to say we did not have a bathe)! We passed lakes which seemed to have a pink glow - no - not another mineral, but with thousands of flamingos on the surface. I think we got a bit carried away taking photos of flamingos from the front angle, from the back angle, from the left, from the right...infact, if any of you ever need a photo of a flamingo, I think we will be able to oblige. The first night accommodation was far from luxurious and we were very, very grateful that we had sleeping bags with us to keep off the freezing temperatures. Needless to say Mel slept in all her clothes (again). The second night, however, we had the unique experience of staying in a "Salt Hotel", which is literally a hotel made from salt.....all the walls, the bed-bases, the tables and chairs (ok - not the showers), but pretty much everything else was made of salt....pretty weird. As we were VERY high up (over 4,800 metres above sea level), sadly we did suffer from a wee bit of altitude sickness. However, taking a trip with Mr boy scout has proved invaluable as John had the foresight to purchase some oxygen before we went, which I tucked into like I would gladly tuck into a roast dinner after 4 months of travelling, and that seemed to help. Fortunately with altitude sickness, the symptoms disappear as soon as you reduce your altitude, so it only lasted through the night and half of the next day and it did not ruin the trip. Coca tea helps (it is what the locals take to reduce the altitude symptoms) - I think you are only meant to have about 10 coca leaves in the cup, but 40 or so didn`t seem too many at the time.......... We laughed with our newly-made friends, gawped at the incredible scenery, and had a wonderful, unforgettable experience. |
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| DID YOU KNOW ?? Did you know that the amazing INCA civilisation developed over 350 different types of potato? Over 200 exsist today in Bolivia Sadly, most of them are pretty grim, particularly the black "rehydrated" ones, which are disgusting. (Thatīs only Melīs opinion.... i think theyīre great...but then i eat any thing......even guinipig!!) |
| SLEEPLESS IN SEATTLE? No, Breathless in Bolivia Ok - this is not a joke.....Did you ever think that buttering a piece of toast or picking up your book to read it could make you breathless? John and I are feeling like we are 40-a-day smokers here in Bolivia..........the altitude really does leave you breathless. La Paz, which holds the title of the highest capital city in the Word, (4,100 metres above sea level) is actually a hysterical place to go because you really can`t do anything without practically passing out from the effort........even Mel found shopping almost too much of an effort to indulge in!! |
| LA PAZ WITCHES MARKET Fancy a llama foot or a stuffed flamingo? WE know the place to go......La Paz witches market really has it all (complete with the smells you would expect from a stuffed flamingo rotting away). Needless to say that we bought several for presents for people back home, so keep your fingers crossed that you are one of the lucky recipients! |
| THE WONDERFUL HOTEL CUPULA, LAKE TITICACA One of our honeymoon upgrades was to spend 2 nights at the beautiful Hotel Cupula on Lake Titicaca and we were very pleased to book ourselves into the newly-built honeymoon suite at this lovely place. We were especially excited when we arrived to see that the honeymoon suite is actually a whole adobe house built down the side of the mountain - a two storey place with a HUGE circular bed, ensuite shower room and an upstairs with 2 hammocks overlooking the beautiful lake......it was pure, pure luxury and we indulged ourselves totally, relishing every moment of the contrast between the luxury here and our usual backpacker hostels! The only thing was......we didn`t want to leave our little nest to wander the streets of Copacabana. Oh well, we keep telling ourselves that we didnīt miss that much!! |
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| ISLA DEL SOL, LAKE TITICACA Described by many travellers as simply the most beautiful place they have ever been, the Isla Del Sol on Lake Titicaca is indeed breathtakingly beautiful. We knew that it took 7 hours pretty strenuous walking to do the island justice, so we decided to stretch out our daytrip to a 2-night stay to enjoy it without rushing. So, we took the 2-hour boat trip from the mainland on a boat which we considered getting out and pushing as it struggled under the weight of eager backpackers, but which thankfully made it safely to the jetty where we (obviously) enjoyed climbing up the 1,000 inca steps (this is at altitude don`t forget - we nearly died)! to get to our hostel. Things didnīt quite go according to plan with our hostel and the one we chose to stay in was actually a little too basic (ok, not just basic, but probably had not been cleaned since the Inca`s were there), so despite having paid to stay there, we actually sneaked off to look at alternatives and it didn`t take long to find better (in fact absolutely everywhere else we looked seemed better). We found a gem for pennies more than the nasty one (about 1pound 20 pence difference to be exact). So, we checked ourselves out of nasty hostel and into nice hostel and got stuck in to exploring the island. We took a beautiful walk along the coast to the Southern tip of the Island and looked out to the sparkling waters whilst recovering from exerting ourselves by walking for more than 2 steps at this altitude. The following day we put on our hiking boots for a strenuous 7 hour hike to the North of the island and back again. The route there passed through several villages where we saw llamas and sheep being hurded through the narrow cobbled streets (no cars here - this really is rural life)...we passed pigs, llama, alpaca and god knows what else in these rural villages. I think we were supposed to pass through several more villages only we kind of lost the path and ended up instead walking through fields and terraces trying to head vaguely North to where we wanted to go (sorry to the Isla Sol farmers if we trod on any of your crops whilst trying to navigate ourselves). The views were spectacular and even the weather cleared up a bit for us in the afternoon when we could gaze at the sparkling seas once again...............paradise!! |
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| 1st March to 1st April |
| Thirty days has September, April, June and the legal tourist visa for Bolivia...... "We were enjoying your country so much, officer, that we really just forgot the time"! One word of warning.....when you go backpacking, best to actually pay attention to how long you get given at the border to enjoy that country for. We kind of knew at the back of our minds that we had 30 days, but we were having such a nice time in Bolivia that we sort-of forgot. We actually remembered when we were half way across to Isla De Sol, where we were planning to stay for 2 days. We looked at our passports and.....oops......our visa ran out the next day. So, a choice to be made, do we risk it and enjoy our time on Isla De Sol, or do we leg it back and buy another bus ticket to get us to the border pronto........... It actually was not too hard a choice to make because Isla De Sol looked so nice from the boat half way there, so we decided to risk it and instead we started practising the various phrases we could use to get us across the border illegally "we loved Bolivia and did not want to leave"·, "our bus got held up by village strikers going to La Paz and we are therefore 24 hours late", "don`t you know who we are" and even the good old "but we are on honeymoon"......, but we decided in the end that a border controller in a country like Bolivia would probably prefer a bribe anyway, so we decided to quietly await our fate and see what happened.....we were to be crossing only 1 day late anyway. How bad was it??? We had to pay the grand fine of 10Pesos, which is approximately 80pence each for the liberty of overstaying past our Visa..... ....Needless to say, it was worth every penny......... .....We wonder what the penalities are for missing our flight home and overstaying in Ecuador for 135 days???? |
| The World`s Most Dangerous Road
...... Rain. Fog. Mud. Three thousand foot cliffs. Landslides. A narrow one-lane dirt road with buses and trucks. Sounds like an unlikely combination for a holiday bicycle outing. But somehow it works, and indeed, it was quite exhilarating. The worlds most dangerous road drops over 11,000 vertical feet as it snakes its way through the Andes to the edge of the Amazon basin. It was the only way provisions can get from La Paz to Coroico and the other small towns in the region. For years it was a one-way road. On specified days of the week you could only go downhill. The other days it was one-way uphill. Then people had deadlines and time tables to meet and the traffic flowed both ways. At some of the more treacherous blind corners, human traffic signalers would stand to guide the traffic safely past each other. We are told that the people who do this work are volunteers from one family, a family that lost several members over the side. Sounds impressive so far............ really makes you want to try it... as now the road is actually a tourist attraction. Gravity Tours shepherd us down the 64-kilometer course. Donīt worry, everyone must purchase travel insurance or show evidence of their own coverage so luckily I was fine.... Mel, due to back problems and sheer common sense followed on behind in the support bus that follows behind picking up stragglers and to transport riders and equipment back up to La Paz. So off I went, I rode through the chilly mountain air all the way down to steamy jungle, not to mention passing through waterfalls, rain and fog. The fog was a blessing at times, momentarily obscuring the view of the thousand-foot drop-off just a few feet from our tyre tracks. Perhaps the ride is not as crazy as I have made it sound.........especially as the road has closed to traffic a couple of months earlier... and the only people on the road were cyclists..... so although there wasnīt the need to dodge the buses and lorries there was still the 1000ft drops, waterfalls and did i mention the land slides.....? Then again, perhaps I'm crazy. to be honest the most dangerous thing on the road was your own stupėdity and following that the sandflies at the bottom that had a bite which would make a mosquito bite feel like the most wonderful thing possible....... If youīre desperate to see the other photos..... my group starts from page 10...... http://www.shutterfly.com/progal/album.jsp?aid=768a5498cf47e9637ade Password: Photos |
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